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(gunshot)
(insects buzzing) (water trickling)
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(machine whirring)
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(man speaking in foreign language)
- The thing is that I was brought up
in southern Denmark in what currently
is considered to be the darkest period
of Danish food history.
Eating in my childhood was not a very interesting thing.
So we had a lot of frozen food, a lot of cheap meat,
dried potato flakes, everything that would
make my mother's life as a cook more easy.
I thought something was wrong.
I thought it was necessary to address
those challenges in the Danish food culture.
How we produce food and how we eat, how we consume.
And that is the fuel in my life,
the belief that we can do better.
My vision was that we should found
a new Nordic cuisine that by virtue of its taste
should brighten the world.
And Nordic cuisine, the new Nordic cuisine
should become a great cuisine just as the French,
the Chinese, the Spanish.
So in the beginning, people made fun of us
and called us funny names.
The whale restaurant and the seal boys and things like that.
And nobody believe that you could
make a gourmet restaurant,
where it was illegal if somebody ordered
olive oil or anything from south
of the southern border of Denmark.
We created a much better platform for
talking about and making Nordic food.
Because suddenly it was the talk of town.
- [Woman] This is the kind of Oscars
of the chef's year, is it?
- It is, it's the World's 50 Best Restaurants Awards
on Monday night and it's certainly the
biggest restaurant event I can think of worldwide.
El Bulli and Fat Duck have taken the top two
places for the past five years.
The interest this year is whether Noma might do well.
You probably know it- it's the restaurant
in Copenhagen. - Yes.
- And there's speculation that that might
break up this monopoly of the top two.
- [News Woman] If the words Danish cuisine
only conjure up a famous breakfast pastry
in your head, then think again,
because Europe's new culinary capitol
isn't Paris or Rome, but Copenhagen.
- When Rene Redzepi and I founded Noma in 2003,
we wanted to redefine luxury.
We wanted to emphasize seasonality.
And that is what the new Nordic cuisine is about.
It is about making real, great products
that are unique to our region.
It is about giving the Nordic food
a voice in the choir of great, international cuisines.
- That is incredible. - Wow.
- It is really delicious.
- [Woman] Noma's success, meanwhile,
has inspired a new school of Scandinavian cooking
and food blogger Mira Arkin told us
it's turned Copenhagen into a dining mecca.
- We have all the gastro-tourism
and people traveling here from all over the world
just to visit our restaurants.
- Ladies and gentlemen, it gives me great pleasure
to announce that the restaurant at number one...
Noma!
(audience cheering) (applause)
(wind blowing)
(soft music)
- Even though Noma became very successful,
I felt that it didn't feel good enough.
I realized that it didn't fill me up
and therefore, the simple idea that I got
was that what if you would give it away?
What if you could give the knowledge,
the thing I had learned from building the restaurant
and making a lot of other people interested
in the Nordic cuisine.
What if I could take that from a rich country, Denmark,
and give it away to a poor country
and kind of install the same idea there
in a way that would benefit people, create jobs,
growth, opportunities?
So you can say that the uniqueness of Noma
and the shine from that project.
I wanted there to be more in it.
(soft music)
Bolivia is the poorest country in South America
with more than 25% suffering from hunger.
But it is also one of the countries in the world
with the largest and richest diversity in terms
of agriculture and produce and people.
We're setting up in the capitol of Bolivia, La Paz,
as a non-profit organization,
a fine dining restaurant and bakery
and a bistro, including a cooking school
for underprivileged, young, indigenous future chefs.
(soft music) (people chattering)
The idea is to turn those marginalized young people
into culinary entrepreneurs
and to form the Bolivian food movement.
The essence is that if we succeed in sharing
our experience from Noma and the Nordic cuisine movement
with the Bolivian people, that it'll mean more
to the destiny of that nation
than the Nordic cuisine has ever meant
and will ever mean to anyone.
(people chattering)
(woman speaking in foreign language)
This was a charity project so we did not
come here with the idea to teach affluent families,
kids, how to cook.
Bueno noches.
(students speak in foreign language)
(speaking in foreign language)
- [Claus] We wanna find kids who have
had a very tough childhood.
So all the kids in the beginning, they came from
very, very poor families.
(speaking in foreign language)
(laughing)
- [Claus] I knew that I had to find a couple of
team leaders here with a wish to
make a difference in other people's life.
- I think Claus in a visionary.
He's an entrepreneur, he's a leader in many aspects.
When a person that was a fundamental piece
from the Nordic food movement
and today we know what the Nordic food movement means
for the Nordic Scandinavian region,
with the Noma effect and the tourism
and the Michelin restaurants and health, for example.
When you know that, and someone gives you
the offer to be part of the same thing
but in your region, in your part of the world,
where actually we have people that don't have
access to education or health or food,
you're an asshole not to take it.
(speaking in foreign language)
- Because we didn't have any idea what this would mean,
I don't think, at any point, I didn't imagine this.
- No. - At any point.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(speaking in foreign language)
(laughs)
(speaking in foreign language)
(man speaking in foreign language)
(speaking in foreign language)
(laughs)
(man speaking in foreign language)
(speaking in foreign language)
- [Claus] How can I have the right
to dream of something else on behalf of Bolivia?
But that was my feeling, that Bolivians wanted
to be like American people or like European people,
this desire to be kind of Westernized.
Fortunately, there seemed to be also a longing for
a strong national identity and a wish to be
proud of who you are and where you come from
and what is your heritage.
But it takes a certain effort to capture
young people's minds.
But food is maybe one way to do it.
(soft music)
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(speaking in foreign language)
(soft music) (people chattering)
- [Kamilla] I have a great responsibility with these girls.
I mean, being a female chef in a sometimes,
sometimes all the time, machismo society,
it's been very interesting.
And a lot of these girls don't have the confidence
because they come from a home where, as a woman,
so when are you getting married?
What's the deal here, where are the kids?
Some of them took big risks and in the beginning,
they were hiding it from their families
where they were going during the day
just to be able to come here and cook.
That's unfortunately the reality here.
(soft music)
- [Augusta] What were some obstacles you faced when
creating and maintaining Gustu?
- What do you think?
Could be the obstacles?
- Maybe getting the word out to people
about this new restaurant and
not making it seem like you wanted to
come there and just, like, be the best man
in the country, maybe?
- Two very good points.
I think two obstacles was actually that.
It was not easy to engage a lot of Bolivians
in the simple idea that they could potentially be home
to one of the most beautiful food cultures in the world
and one of the best restaurants in the world.
Also, it's not very easy to come as
a white man from Europe, to come there
and do that kind of project without risking
to come across as, uh
a self proclaiming, um, asshole.
You can say that. (chuckling)
(speaking in foreign language)
- I think that when we started the project,
many people was every skeptical.
Many people, many chefs.
And they were right.
I mean, I think, I'm not saying
that they were not right.
They were right. - Yeah.
- Just to think that we were gonna come here
and without understanding the country,
suddenly we're going to place a fine dining
restaurant here, blah blah blah.
I mean of course, they were right.
(speaking in foreign language)
- When you understand Claus's career since 1989,
or when you understand Claus's message,
this was actually a logical next step.
I mean, it was logical that a person like him
at the level that he was, at some point
he was leaving the country to try to explore
and try to spread the values of the Nordic food movement.
I mean, of what happened in the Nordic food movement.
(speaking in foreign language)
- Why would you even bother to come here
and go through all this shit?
You know, getting shit about what you're doing
when you're doing something good
but people don't understand it?
- But this kind opinion, you always will have.
- Yeah, I know. - You always will have
this kind of opinion.
But, to be honest, if you wanna make money,
let's make money in, I don't know, in Miami.
- Yeah. - Let's go to Miami.
Yeah, not through a social project, not in La Paz.
(speaking in foreign language)
(wind blowing)
(soft music)
(speaking in foreign language)
- [Claus] So the white savior narrative,
that's a funny ghost.
You very quickly get to understand that you run
a tremendous risk, I mean the smallest thing you do wrong,
then you fall into that trap and you have
lost your chances of doing anything impactful
and meaningful with them out there.
(speaking in foreign language)
- It was very important that people
honestly believed that I was doing this for them
because of some sort of love
and not just to benefit myself in any ugly way.
If I couldn't get that across, then I wouldn't
get the help that the project needed.
But I believe the reason why I became somebody
who one day started a foundation of that nature,
it lives, it started way before.
It has to do with what I experienced as a child somehow.
(people chattering)
(soft music)
(speaking in foreign language)
(soft music)
- When I was 18 years old, I had never, ever
tasted something that was close at blowing my mind.
I loved, you know, chocolate.
I loved a Danish, I loved, you know, a French fry,
but it was kind of simple, you know?
It was simple food.
I mean, who doesn't love that.
But when I came to France, I had the most subtle,
beautiful, sophisticated, unpredictable,
surprising flavors and textures and colors
and it was like suddenly landing in
some sort of nirvana or culinary paradise.
And I think the contrast between the darkness
of the food culture when I was a child
and then that immense light.
(water trickling)
I ended up feeling that maybe there was a relationship
between the quality of the food culture
and quality of life. (water trickling)
(speaking in foreign language)
(soft music)
- [Augusta] So, where did you grow up,
and like, what was it like, back then?
- I never told you that before?
- No.
- So, I grew up in the poorest part of Denmark,
in the southern most part of Denmark
in a middle class family down there
in a little provincial town.
I mean, the first many years were really good.
I had the most wonderful grandmother.
You didn't get to meet her.
Ingeborg was her name.
She loved me more than anything in the entire world.
She gave me all the money she had,
she fed me cakes at all times,
even though my mother said she shouldn't.
She played cards with me when I wanted.
So I was kind of spoiled by her.
And also my mother had so much wanted to get a child.
The first many years of my life were really full of love
and attention, almost too much.
(soft music)
(speaks in foreign language)
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(dogs barking)
(speaking in foreign language)
(people chattering)
(soft music)
- What was your relationship with your father like?
- I mean, my father, he had been treated
not so kindly by his father.
And my father, it was very difficult for him to show love.
And, um, it is not very easy to grow
up with a father who doesn't tell you
and show you how much he loves you.
And he also didn't really want a child.
They were very young.
My father was way too young to be a father.
He was only 19 years old.
But then my parents divorced.
My father, he met another woman,
and I was the one who actually found out
when I was, I don't know, 12, 13?
And told my mother while my father was listening to that,
at the table, we were having dinner together.
So from everything being kind of wonderful
in the first eight years, there was a period where
my parents had a hard time, and I could feel that.
And then suddenly it got really bad.
In the middle of all that, my mother started
drinking too much alcohol and I couldn't
connect with her anymore because she was,
I could see in her eyes that when I tried to talk to her,
the only thing she wanted to do was to
get me out of the room so she could drink alcohol.
And she kind of disappeared out of my life
and it was as if everything became dark after that.
And also my grandma Ingeborg,
she died half a year later.
So there were some very tough times there.
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(speaking in foreign language)
(soft music)
- So when I came to south of France, to Gascony,
after having been an au pair boy in Paris,
I ended up with Guy and his wife Elizabeth.
And he was a fourth generation baker
and a pastry chef out of this world.
And they couldn't have kids and I became like their child,
the child they had always wanted to have.
And Elizabeth, his wife, was the most wonderful, warm,
compassionate person in the whole world.
I had never seen a woman like that.
And Guy became, like, he represented so many of the
things that I had missed with my own father.
He had all the time in the world.
He taught me how to, he invited me into his life,
and taught me how to be a baker and a pastry chef.
He read poems.
He shared with me the best food in the world.
The best drinks.
He showed me his world.
He wanted me to have a wonderful time
and that was the most important, certainly, he loved me.
He couldn't say I love you, either, but I felt love.
I felt love in Agen that I hadn't felt
for 10 years in my life.
And it was an amazing experience.
It was like being in paradise.
For me, Agen was paradise.
- So Guy's positive impact on you
impacted you more than your dad's negative impact on you?
- Um, I'm not sure that it is as simple as that.
I mean, I have tried, as a father,
to be different from my father.
I tell you that I love you.
You don't doubt that I love you.
I wasn't sure that my father loved me.
I didn't want to make the same mistakes,
and that's why I always wanna make sure
that you know I love you, and I say it very often.
But the meeting with Guy and Elizabeth
truly changed my life and I would never had
become the person I am today if I hadn't met them.
(speaking in foreign language)
(insects buzzing) (birds chirping)
(speaking in foreign language)
(soft music)
- So there was this very special moment when
my father's life philosophy and Guy's
philosophy of life kind of confronted.
I'd been standing with four or five employees
for a couple of hours without having had much to do,
and Guy had been at the local cafe, playing on horses,
drinking Pastis, and I realized that this pastry shop
was making literally no money.
And he was so unambitious, he was giving away
a lot of stuff for free.
He was negotiating prices.
He had too many employees.
Everything was sold too cheaply,
and they had a lot of clients.
They loved the shop, but they made no money,
and I decided one day to talk to him about it
and he told me a couple of things.
The most important thing probably was...
(speaks in foreign language)
Happiness is about knowing what you wanna do with your life
and having the guts to follow your heart.
And for me, that was very special
because I could see that he was following his heart.
And I could see a man that was passionate about his life
and my father had told me, more or less, the opposite.
That it doesn't matter what you do,
as long as you just do it with a sense of efficiency.
So it was like a clash between my father and Guy
and I was inspired by Guy more than by my father.
So I kind of became somebody who would follow my heart.
(insects buzzing) (birds chirping)
(speaking in foreign language)
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(speaking in foreign language)
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(whistles) (smacks lips)
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- [Michelangelo] What is the meaning of a chef today?
I mean, what are we actually doing?
Are we just serving food and that's it,
and we go home, and that's it?
Or we actually are in the position that people hear us?
We are communicators of the land.
We should be an engine of change.
I mean, we're the middle of the whole value chain.
From the producer to the consumer,
so what is the actual meaning of a chef today?
I mean, what can we give to the students here,
on what they should focus?
I don't care if they want to do a pizzeria in the future.
I don't want to care if they want to do
a Spanish restaurant or a French restaurant,
as long as you have certain values.
(people chattering)
Something that we don't have here in South America,
not just in Bolivia, is that we don't understand
what is legacy here in South America.
We just work for the day.
Legacy is when you're capable to put a seed
and don't expect to see the plant.
The seed is for someone else, you see?
And you don't have any problem with that.
So, I would like to see the chef, the cooks,
and everybody here trying to build something
that will leave some kind of legacy
to their family, to their kids, to the future generations,
because otherwise we are not going anywhere.
Otherwise Gustu didn't really do their task.
(insects buzzing)
(soft music)
- I came straight from France.
I knew that what I really wanted to do
was to somehow get into food.
Not to win Michelin stars or anything.
I didn't even know what that was at that time.
But I wanted to use food as an instrument
to impact people the way I had
been touched myself in France.
That was what I really wanted to do.
What could be the worst thing to happen in Bolivia?
The smallest success in Bolivia,
so just maybe if you can impact one person,
it would be kind of a success.
(people chattering)
(speaking in foreign language)
- [All] Gustu!
(speaking in foreign language)
- So, it is a very special moment for me
to be here with you today.
I remember when I first thought about this idea of
doing something meaningful in Bolivia,
I didn't know at all if it was possible to make it.
(soft music)
When I saw this for the first time,
I really doubted that this would be the real place,
a meaningful place to start a fine dining restaurant
with ambition to change the country
because who would go there?
But then somehow, I kind of just got the feeling that
there was maybe a potential.
The fact that the people is extremely friendly,
that they have all these wonderful fruits
and vegetables and types of meat and fish
that the world doesn't know about
and that had never been translated into
a stunning food concept.
And also the fact that who wouldn't wanna come here
and visit this country and see all the natural beauties
and the cultural heritage? (soft music)
So, it was very much a matter of gut feeling
and just jumping out into it and trying it out.
And looking it backwards I think that
it was a pretty good choice. (soft music)
(speaking in foreign language)
(soft music)
(speaking in foreign language)
(soft music) (speaking in foreign language)
(speaking in foreign language)
(soft music)
- I do believe the fact that a number of peoples
put an arm around me when I was in trouble,
when I had a hard time in my life.
I would never had a chance of making it
if not a lot of strange people, amongst my friends,
amongst the school teachers, in France.
A number of adult people somehow became
like parental figures in my life
and I felt a lot of support and I can't imagine
this has not helped me try to be like that,
when I have had the opportunity to be it in my life.
(soft music)
- [Kamilla] I feel really proud.
We changed some very shy girls into, you know,
proud, proud female chefs.
(soft music)
It's just reaching them and then start digging
and then suddenly you see this person opening up
and coming out of their shell and actually being happy.
(soft music)
(people chattering)
(speaking in foreign language)
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(speaking in foreign language)
(laughing)
(speaking in foreign language)
(cheering) (laughing)
(speaking in foreign language)
- Yeah. (laughing)
(speaking in foreign language)
(laughing)
(speaking in foreign language)
- [All] Kenzo!
(clapping)
(soft music)
(speaking in foreign language)
(soft music)
- Can I like, word it in my own way
that's kind of funny?
So remember when we watched Hamilton
and Alexander explained how a legacy is like
your own garden that you get to plant but never see?
How do you think you're remembered and who ma--
- [Claus] How I think I will be remembered?
- Yeah, and how do you think your legacy is,
and how it's different now than it would've been
five years ago or more?
- Um.
I hope that what I'm doing
is helping people,
future generations getting to a better place
than if I hadn't cared about anything.
So I really hope that what I'm trying to do
makes sense and is meaningful and will be,
I mean, if not remembered, then at least
that somebody would benefit from me in the long run.
I don't think a lot about how other people will remember me.
I am more preoccupied with, I mean, I hope more that,
I hope that I more than anything am a good
role model for you and for Viola and for Elvira
because I know that I could spend more time,
we could spend more time together.
We could cook more together.
I mean, like, I can easily criticize myself for that part.
So what I really hope is that one day
when I'm no longer here and you are still around,
that you fully embrace how I was as a dad.
(soft music)
That, I think, is much more important
than how the world will remember me.
(soft music)
(woman speaking in foreign language over PA)
And to see you sitting here, graduating,
and to come here as a guest
in this wonderful building with all this life,
it is, by any standard, the most important thing
that I've ever been a part of in my life.
(soft music)
(soft, percussive music)
(soft music)